March, 2018
If the Davis Mountains were moved a hundred miles to the west, into New Mexico, they wouldn't be much noticed and might not even be named. But, in West Texas these mountains stand out. The highest point is above 8,000 ft., which compares to 5,000 ft. for the surrounding high desert. The phrase "sky island" is used to describe these isolated ranges that have their own unique environment.
Marfa Texas is the first "big" town south of the Davis Mountains. It isn't your typical West Texas town.
Texas
The town of Fort Davis, Texas is named for the Army fort, which is just next door. The fort was created in 1854 on the Limpia Creek. Today, the small town is also the county seat of Jeff Davis* County.
*At the time, Jefferson Davis was the Secretary of War during the administration of Franklin Pierce.
I'll be spending the night at the Hotel Limpia, certainly one of the historic buildings of the town.
It's worth noting that the original name for the Davis Mountains was the Limpia Mountains. Just why that original name wasn't recovered is perhaps best explained by where they are--Texas.
There are good roads that surround the mountains. This is the road on the north side. It's a beautiful area.
The
Nature Conservancy, Madera Canyon Trail. This is not a long trail
(being just a couple of miles, or so), but it was nicely planned.
The small creek was impounded long ago; this pond now looks quite natural.
The Visitors Center for the McDonald Observatory. I was there at the wrong time to take any of the tours. The popular thing, of course, is to be there for the nighttime programs.
The view from Mount Locke (6,800 ft.), This is, incidentally, the highest point of any Texas highway.
The Otto Struve Telescope of 1938. At one time this was the second largest telescope in the world.
The road along the southern edge of the Davis Mountains.
Marfa, Texas was founded as a railroad water stop in 1883. Today, thanks largely to the artist Donald Judd, it is known for its art community and several organizations devoted to art.
The biggest thing that ever happened at the Hotel Paisano is that the cast and crew of the movie "Giant" stayed here during filming. I say that based on the number of oversized photographs that line the walls and how often the movie gets mentioned.
Is it possible to get to the top of the old courthouse and look out those windows? Yes, it is.
The International Woman's Foundation is one of the art organizations you'll find in Marfa. The foundation is located in the restored officers club of old Fort Russell.
Compare this view with the one I took from the courthouse. Evidently the photographer is on top of the water tower (you can see his shadow).
German prisoners from the North Africa campaign were kept in Camp Russell during the war. Two of them did a series of remarkable murals across two rooms that are still here.
The Chinati Foundation is the largest art organization in Marfa, and through the original work of Donald Judd, occupies the buildings of the old army base. There is also a Judd Foundation; I am not clear on how these two foundations (and any others in Marfa) share or cooperate or otherwise continue the vision of Donald Judd.
Each of the buildings (above) contains just a single artist's exhibit. You should consider the building and the artwork inside the building as all part of a single work. Not surprisingly, you cannot just wander on your own, there are a number of guided tours that are available. The one I took lasted the day.
You'll begin your tour in the visitor center building (below, left)
These two hangar-like buildings contain a single permanent exhibit of a work by Donald Judd. As you walk from one building to the next through the day it's all rather astonishing when you step inside.
Photographs are not allowed. Each of the eight small shots (below) was taken from the Chinati Foundation website. Considering that each installation is linked to its surroundings and the building it is in, photographs don't really capture the whole work. You've got to be there.
The Davis Mountains and Marfa; unrelated and unconnected, but worth seeing together.